403 brown chromexcel

Length: Slightly Long

Width: Perfect

Watch my review on my YouTube Bootlosophy Channel: This is the 403 model of the Alden Indy boot in brown Chromexcel. It truly feels like the history of Alden - and their experience in manufacturing orthopaedic shoes. The arch support and overall comfort is terrific. While essentially a moc toe, it is of course, a "mock" moc toe in that the stitching is form rather than function and the side walls are sleek rather than straight up like a Red Wing moc toe. Yet still, because of the wide last, there is a roomy toe box for comfort that looks sleek. The Chromexcel used is a full 2mm thick, and fully leather-lined, so is a little over 3mm thick around your foot but very supple, supportive and comfortable. I bought these true-to-size after some internet reviews but I think I could easily have gone a half size down. At 8.5D instead of 8D they fit, but are not as "secure" around my foot. I'm not swimming in them, but a little more snug would have been good so that I don't have to wear thick boot socks with them. But despite a half size too large, the fit in this Trubalance last does lock in around the heel and is wide at the ball of the foot, ending with a rounded toe. Just the way I like it actually because I'm not a fan of those almond toe lasts that try to be too sleek and are tight around the toes. The comfort is down to the last and the bottoming - leather and cork in the midsole and filler, shank, cantilever arch on the inside of the boot, and the Thomas s-shaped heel pushes support under the arch. I've seen complaints about "recent" quality control, but these look really well made - no loose stitches, no wheeling at the stitching, leather was great with no inordinate creasing All in all, a great boot, and if I had another chance I'd buy it again, but a half size down.

Brown Chromexcel on Dainite sole

Length: Perfect

Width: Slightly Wide

Watch my review on my YouTube Bootlosophy Channel: This was my first Allen Edmonds shoe after reading so much about an American icon and while this is a very good boot, I must say I was disappointed in that it's a good, functional boot with not a lot of soul (pun unintended). Don't get me wrong, it's a good boot and I'm not sorry I bought it, and quality aside, it looks and in many regards, feels like a lot of plain toe service boots out there - the Parkhurst Allen, the Grant Stone Diesel, the Thursday President - all at slightly better value for money, with something innate about them that makes them feel like they have a soul. As for fit and comfort, the reasonably wide AE 1757 last, the supple Chromexcel, even fully lined, the cork and leather midsoles, and the reasonably shock absorbing Dainite all make this a very comfortable boot. It definitely fits (like a glove) in an 8D but I got these in an 8E so that I could fit an orthotic removable insole (otherwise the arch support is ok but not spectacular). I like this last - fits at the heel but not tight, widens at the waist and certainly around the ball of the foot, and the rounded toebox gives my toes room in what is otherwise a sleek looking boot. The last design, despite the wideness of the toebox, and the dressy brown Chromexcel, make this quite a versatile boot - I would class this one of my best Business casual boots, capable of being worn with dressy pants or chinos and button-ups and a blazer, or even a suit. At the same time it's at home in jeans and T-shirts (but not too ripped or faded, it's too shiny for that!). The QC of AE has been said to be declining but I can't say that these disappointed me - stitching was even and good all over the place, the leather selection didn't show up any loose grain and even the creases from wear are pretty good. Would I buy these again? If I didn't have so many brown plain toe service boots, probably. Overall summary, good boots but in an overall contest of all brown plain toe service boots that are on the sleeker and dressier side, not my first pick, but would be in there somewhere.

kyle

Really great review Teik, thanks for taking the time to write this up. To what would you attribute the "lack of soul"?

Reply

bootlosopher

Thanks Kyle, I think primarily it feels like it was designed to fill a gap but was designed "safely". Other newer brands have taken the plain toe service boot and treated it less like a dress boot and innovated with fit, material and in particular, uppers leathers.

New 650 model which is the upgrade of the 550. Brown oil kip leather.

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

In Australia, this is an everyday workboot, rather than a fashion boot, and as such is a very popular pull-on boot. The 650 model is the updated version of the former 550 model - basically the same with an updated lug pattern on the sole, and upgraded TPU that will last longer then the older models which were known to deteriorate if you didn't use them regularly. The "Blunnies" have a very comfortable last, narrow at the heel and waist/instep, wider at the forefoot and round toes. This shape keeps the boot secure but also gives the toes room to flex. The 650 comes in dark brown "kip" leather, which is a waxy, matt top grain, easy to use, supple, and tough and durable. The TPU sole is soft and shock absorbing, and coupled with removable insoles - just extremely comfortable t throw on and forget about! I bought Australian size 7 which is US 8. The fit is roomy and since it came with two insoles I used both. Blundstones supply a flat foam insole, and then on top of it, a sculptured foam insole. You can use either or both, or you can remove both and use your own orthopaedic insole. Extremely comfortable out of the box. No break-in is required. Usable as a workboot for yard work, casual boot and in my work in the Australian bush and desert. Waterproof.

Series 2 stitchdown construction in medium brown Italian waxed suede and Vibram commando lug sole.

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Watch my review on my YouTube Bootlosophy Channel: I bought the Series 2 stitchdown construction in medium brown waxed suede and Vibram commando sole. It feels solid and sturdy. The fit at European 41E is the same as 8D in my other boots like Red Wing, Parkhurst, Alden and Grant Stone. In the previous series 1, which was a Blake Stitch construction, there was a removable insole. Since series 2 onwards is stitchdown, there is no insert and I would go True To Size. The Tukano is a really sturdy boot, and I have taken it on long hikes through our forests and they have stood up well. The comfort factor of the roomy last is excellent, and the QC is good. At this price, with a reasonable MTO wait, this is a great buy.

Crazy Horse uppers, Vibram V-Bar sole

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Watch my review on my YouTube Bootlosophy Channel: To me, this is an iconic service boot. It has a subtle toe spring and toe puff, not the sleek version of a service boot produced by the likes of Viberg and Parkhurst (which is also a favourite of mine for different reasons). As such, it looks like an original military-style boot. Built using the water-resistant Goodyear Welted form of construction, the Vibram V-Bar sole is grippy and sturdy at the same time. Using the traditional cork-filler, with leather insoles, it's not necessarily comfortable when you put them on, but they shape to your feet over time and there is enough room to insert your own foam insole if you want. The Crazy Horse leather is a patina monster and can take the knocks without needing constant care. There was a little break in effort required, primarily at the balls of the feet as it started a little snug, but withing 2 weeks the leather shaped to the form of my foot, and the rest was easy!

"Earth" or waxy commander uppers with the commando sole

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

The Floyd last is a roomier fit than the Leo last. I can put a thick insert if I wanted to and still it would be a good fit. I could have possibly gone with a 7.5E but the 8D is fine.

1. Coffee suede with Vibram wedge sole; 2. Badallasi Saddle Tan 3. Black Chromexcel with leather sole; 4. Tan Essex with Grant Stone studded sole

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

The Leo last fits me perfectly straight out of the box. The wedge sole and the leather sole needed a bit of breaking in to get it to break across the flex point but the uppers were immediately comfortable. The veg tan is thick leather but felt perfectly comfortable even with the thick leather sole. The coffee suede is soft and luxurious to the touch. The black Chromexcel, fully lined is a thick upper. The Tan Essex is so soft and supple.

Tobacco Waxed Suede on rubber stud sole

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Watch my review on my YouTube Bootlosophy Channel: Built on their Leo last, like their Diesel Boots, this Edward boot features larger quarter panels, internal heel counters, and a single strip backstay. Built using traditional Goodyear Welt, veg-tanned leather midsole and cork filler with a veg tanned leather insole, the boot is comfortable as soon as you step into it. I usually wear an 8D in heritage style boots - and Grant Stone is no exception - despite my 8.5D Brannock measurement, this size of 7.5E is a very good fit if you can't get your size - go half a size down, but one width up.

Black leather with black lug sole and iconic white midsole stripe. The leather is comfortable and supple but "ordinary" in lustre and depth

Length: Slightly Long

Width: Perfect

The fit out-of-the-box is good. It's a slim last so slightly longer than expected. The cap is set further back than say an Iron Ranger, which makes the toe look longer. Very comfy on foot because of the poron insole, and the lugged outsole is made of rubber that gives a bit. Not sure how that outsole will wear at this stage. I intend to use it for hikes etc so it will be worn hard.

Natural CXL with leather sole

Length: N/A

Width: N/A

I was worried about ordering TTS since 99% of my boots are ½ size down, but TTS was good advice. The last is just snug at that size, the toe box is quite round (more Iron Ranger than Parkhurst/Grant Stone/Alden) and has room to wiggle my toes. Quite light, I guess due to the leather sole, which is oiled. On first wear, a little firm underfoot with ok but not spectacular shock absorption. Was it worth $400 plus? The jury’s out but at $300 Black Friday price, yeah definitely.

I have this in Spruce Kudu (18 Last), Dublin Dark Roast (602 Last), and Colour #8 Dublin (602 Last)

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

The best fitting boots I have! The 602 last is snug in the heel and waist, comfortable in the vamp and roomy in the toe box. The old 18 Last fits just as well except that it has a more almond shape toe.

Natural CXL and Dainite sole - in the 18 last

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Beautiful boot! The old 18 last fits my foot very well, snug in the heel and waist, with plenty of room in the vamp and toebox. The 18 last has anm almond shape toe, while the newer 602 last is rounded.

I have this in the old 18 last with the almond toe, in Raiz Reverse Waxy Mohawk and the Ridgeway sole, as well as versions in the 602 last in Natural Light Double Shot, Gaucho Moose, and Natural Veg Retan, on a variety of Dainite, Commando and Ridgeway soles.

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Extremely comfortable boot, even in the old 18 last. The 18 last is a little looser in the heel and waist, but the almond shaped toebox does not squeeze the toes. The 602 last is a perfect combination last in D width at the heel and waist and E width at the ball of the foot and toebox. The variation of leathers and outsoles make the Richmond boot a must-have rugged cap toe boot!

875 in Oro Legacy on Red Wing rubber wedge sole

Length: N/A

Width: N/A

It takes some break-in! The heel slips because the combination leather mid sole and thick wedge sole make the break in at the ball of the feet tough. The leather quickly becomes supple but I still feel the stitch under the arch on the right boot. On a scale of 1 to 10 comfort where 10 is a glove I'd say 8

8111 Amber Harness, old neo cork sole

Length: N/A

Width: N/A

Good fit, no real break-in problems as it was second hand. Very comfortable once the leather is fully worn in. The neo cork sole is grippy in most circumstances.

9011 Black Cherry Featherstone on the Roccia half sole

Length: N/A

Width: N/A

Bought second hand so no break in issues. Fitted perfectly and is very comfortable especially with the addition of a foam removable insole. The leather is soft and supple, the sole is excellent.

Black Yearling

Length: N/A

Width: N/A

Australian size 8G (US 9D) which is strange because I usually wear US8D so should be Australian 7G. It's a narrow last so I guess I needed the extra length. Very comfortable and hugs the foot. The leather sole is flexible with no breaking in required.

Length: Perfect

Width: Slightly Wide