Denim Blue

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool; heavyweight boot socks Misc. Notes: High volume right foot; boots are MTO and have up to a 3-week lead time, split sizing offered Ordered: 6/2/22 Received: 6/14/22 Broken in as of mid 7/22 Update 9/3/22: The more I wore these the more I found something off about the fit: the heel counters didn't ever really cup my heels (even after break-in) and in both boots there was a big, annoying air pocket in a small spot between the lacing and where the vamp collapsed after break-in. I suppose none of that should be a surprise, as the size of the boot and the size of my foot are very different. Still, because it was so comfortable to start and never slipped around while I walked I was hoping it would remain a go-to boot. But, given how many better fitting options I have now, I've chosen to pass these along. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- These boots were so comfortable right out of the gate I was worried they were too big. I neurotically checked them against my other boots and found them to be precisely the size I'd wanted them to be. After going for a quick little 1-mile walk in them, I noticed absolutely nothing amiss with the fit: the flex point lines up where it should, there was no back-and-forth slippage, there was no side-to-side slippage. As an added bonus the insoles are super cushy, comparable to Helm's offerings. They're definitely made on a high volume last. There's a ton of room in the instep and toe box. My right foot is just as comfortable as my left for a change, and I can easily wear the thickest boot socks I own (that put my feet at about a 7EE) without it feeling uncomfortably tight. Given all this, I think there's a lot of leeway in sizing: I could've ordered a 6EE or a 6.5E for something more snug, but I'm still quite happy with the 6.5EE. I've seen posts regarding the lacking quality of Adelante's leather floating about the internet. I'm still fairly new to leather footwear so I'm afraid I can't say for sure beyond, "It seems fine to me." The craftsmanship is certainly really good. Adelante have officially set the standard for a properly fitting boot for me. My only comfort complaint is with the inner heel counters: the right side pokes very lightly at my outer ankle bone on occasion and on the left the edge rubs against the inner side of my heel. Easy enough to solve with thicker socks, though I'm interested in seeing if that's still an issue with The Valparaíso. My only aesthetic complaint is it's not as sleek as I like but I acknowledge that there's not a whole lot of room to work with when it comes to a short, wide, and tall foot like mine.

Black

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width; boots are MTO and have up to a 3-week lead time, split sizing offered Ordered: 9/13/22 Received: 10/11/22 Not broken in yet These chukkas fit basically perfectly. The ball of my foot lines up where it should, my heels feel cupped, the heel slip is present but doesn't result in friction, there's just enough room in the forefoot, my toes can spread and wiggle no problem, the top of the facings just barely touch when I cinch it as tight as I want it, and the volume on the instep is just right. It's not a particularly handshake-y sort of fit but the roominess is both secure and comfortable. I've found Adelante's lasts to be very acommodating for high volumes, which suits me great. Aside from a comfortable fit, they also have some kind of foam insole which adds to the comfort. In addition the leather is thin (think dress shoe thin) and supple, only just stiff enough to stand up on its own out of the box. There's also suede strip on the inside around the heel, which is meant to reduce heel slip. A nice little detail. The leather I got is nubuck, with a texture so fine and smooth that I think there's basically no nap. I like the texture and the matte quality it produces but generally I prefer the velvety feel and the way the colors shift with a slighly longer nap. For the black colorway that works wonderfully, though their mahogany colorway is also nubuck and I think it may not have the usual depth of color one might expect. There's virtually no pull-up, which is what I wanted -- I don't expect these to patina all that drastically and that suits my taste for this pair well. There's a lot of character to this shoe: the split quarters, the cap toe, the gray contrast stitching, the dark brown finish on the midsole and heel stack, the slightly pointed edges of the midsole at the toe, and the white welt stitch on the dark brown midsole. These details and how they came together were what caught my eye, as normally I find chukkas to be very plain. Adelante do offer a plainer chukka for those with more subdued tastes than mine, but this is a really stylish shoe without being too loud. They also packed purple laces in the box in case I wanted to be a little louder -- I might just try them. The stitch length on the vamp is fairly average and even (I believe that part is machine-stitched) but on the welt it's quite fine. Though the stitch length is fairly consistent, the stitch path and even individual stitches themselves do get a little crooked in places, particularly around the heels. That simply tells me that it was hand-welted so the level of consistency on display is pretty impressive. Not to mention the stitch is sewn incredibly close to the uppers with no needle scratches in sight. The welt join is also very nearly seamless, visible only because of the dye on the midsole. I'm not sure why they took four weeks to get to me instead of three, as advertised on Adelante's site. My previous pair of Adelantes were spot on in timing. This is not a complaint -- four weeks for an MTO boot to get to my door is still an incredibly short amount of time. However, there was no communication or updates on the progress of my pair or of any potential delays. I think it's fairly usual for handcrafted MTO places to encounter delays of one kind or another, and it's also pretty standard for the customer to have to be the one to reach out and ask for updates. But it's something to keep in mind, particularly if one is new to the MTO process. Long story short, I'm really happy with these chukkas -- I think the style, construction, price point, and the super short time it takes to construct them makes for a great value.

Reverse Snuff Kudu

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Not broken in yet I had originally ordered these in 6E, back when I was going off my Red Wing Volumental size (6.1EE) which only accounted for heel-to-toe length. This was after I'd ordered my first pair of Diesel in 6E which I unfortunately found to be too tight on my right instep. I was hoping this roomier last would ease that problem. It did, but not enough, and the lack of heel slip made me wary, as usually that indicates that the boot is too small. So I exchanged for a 6.5E. It's a good fit, better than my Diesels in the same size -- it swung me back around to thinking that 6.5E is a decent alternative to 7D. There's much more space on the top of the foot and in the toes. I've heard talk about how heavy this boot tends to be but I don't really notice while I'm wearing it. It's certainly very tough, good for moderate housework or hiking. Definitely casual -- despite the dressier silhouette, I would not even try to dress these up like I might for the black or color 8 Brass Boots. That's a bit of a surprise coming from Grant Stone, but I actually like it more that way. As far as comfort goes, the Brass Boot is pretty comfortable. The suppleness of the reverse kudu helps, I think -- I suspect there won't be much of a break in. And the quality of the boot is stunning given the price. I've gotten boots that cost the same or more and very few match the attention to detail and near-flawless construction.

Earth

Length: Perfect

Width: Slightly Narrow

Socks: Mid-cushion cotton, midweight merino wool socks Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; two pairs: one in Earth 6E (pictured), one in Storm Kudu 6.5E Both broken in as of 7/22 Update 9/3/22: After wearing the 6E Diesels out and about for a bit, I still ended up getting quite a lot of friction in my heels, despite them being fully broken in. That tells me that they're definitely too short, and there's nothing a cobbler can do about that. These are no longer a part of my collection. The 6.5E Diesels are also no longer in the roster. Though I can ignore the pressure of the tongue seam on my right instep after a little while, I have so many more comfortable options. I'm passing these along too. --- Update 8/4/22: I got my 6E Diesels in Earth back from the cobbler. It's knocked me off the fence about keeping these. They are so comfortable now. --- Update 7/17/22: I ordered a pair of Diesels in Storm Kudu in size 6.5E not long after I'd gotten the Diesels in 6E and it fit a lot better. It's still a little tight on the tongue seam even after breaking in, but it's hardly noticeable with thinner socks (as opposed to the 6E which are still quite noticeable). I sent in my first pair for stretching to see if I can get some extra room in the ball and instep because the more time I spent wearing other, more comfortable boots the less I could tolerate it. Grant Stone's sizing information says that it's possible for someone to size down a half-length and up a width and achieve a similar fit. Given the slight tightness on my instep that I don't experience with the rest of my 7D boots across brands I think a 7D would fit better than the 6.5E. So I think in the future I'm going to stick with 7D, which, now that I know my proper size, should be my go-to anyway. That being said, this size is much more comfortable. Despite the expected slight heel slip, I haven't gotten any blisters -- break in was easy. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- 06/22, 6.0E: I'd actually briefly owned another Leo last boot in size 6D, bought secondhand. Those were way too tight right away. In retrospect, no surprise there. Being as how Grant Stone don't yet have EE sizes in the Leo last, I sent a sizing request and was recommended a size 6E, as it would fit my length better and offer more room in the forefoot than the Thursdays I own in 6.5. One thing the rep said was that their lasts tend to run a half size "larger" than Thursday Boots. When I got my Diesels I double-checked it against my Captains in 6.5 and I personally didn't see what they meant. The Diesel's length was shorter (which was a relief, as I wanted a shorter boot; the length was perfect) and while it was indeed wider as I was told it would be, the seam of the tongue was tighter on the instep of my right foot. If it weren't for the tight instep, I would consider this the best compromise for me in length-vs-width so far. The width in the ball is still slightly tighter than snug, and the instep tightness makes it so that lightweight socks are the only viable option for me. I think next time I'm going to try 6.5E on the Leo last, though I'm still willing to try a 6E on the Floyd last, since I hear that one is roomier. All that being said, I'm pretty thrilled with these boots. They're impressive quality and a really rich color and texture. I can't wait until some of the wax starts rubbing off.

Crimson Chromexcel

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width Broken in as of late December Given my previous experience of ordering 6.5E in the Leo last and it being slightly too low volume for my right foot even in thin socks, I figured that ordering 7D would be a similar story. So 7E it was. They were comfortable right away, with the ball of my foot landing perfectly and plenty of room in the forefoot, with my heels feeling cupped at the same time. The only thing that concerned me was that, when I cinched the boot up to where I wanted it, the facings were very close, especially at the ankle. This was a surprise to me because my feet aren't low volume and my ankles are not skinny. But after looking around and seeing other people chat about them, it seems like most Leo lasted boots are designed with the facings fairly close together. One thing I noticed while walking around is that my heels seem relatively locked in. This was a little concerning at first, because a lack of heel slip typically indicates that the boot's arch length is too short, but otherwise everything else seemed spot on. Break-in was easy, with 4-mile walks generally being a total breeze. If my socks are less than fresh, though, the friction in the heel does cause some redness and irritation on longer walks, which I think is partially because of the way the heel is locked in. By far not an intractable problem, though. When I first got these boots there were a lot of little things I noticed: there were all kinds of tiny scuffs and scrapes all over them (though there was no faint creasing anywhere to suggest that they'd been tried on and returned), there was a slight gap in both welt seams, and the quarters and tongue on the left boot ended up sitting a little crooked when I put the boot on. To be clear, these are extremely minor and entirely aesthetic issues -- I only bring them up because the fact that I was at all surprised by this (and even mildly disappointed, at least until my sense returned) is a testament to Grant Stone's quality control. Several pairs of Grant Stone boots and shoes have crossed my hands and this is the first time I've seen any of those flaws. That being said, I really won the CXL lottery on both of these boots: from the vamp to the quarters to even the tongue, heel counter, and backstay the creasing is incredibly fine. Speaking of CXL, their Crimson Chromexcel offerings tend to sell out frequently and now I can see why. Beyond brown being the staple color for boots, this kind of brown color has a lot of depth to it, with beautiful reddish/orange-y undertones that really come out in the sunlight. It took a while for the split toe pattern to grow on me and I was still a little on the fence when I placed my order but now I'm really glad I have this pair in my collection. The white apron stitching helps add a little more interest, taking it a step beyond a "standard" smart casual brown boot, and it sort of hints at the ruggedness of a moc toe. It's certainly piqued my curiosity in the Black and Dune colors, but I'm still quite content with my choice. What else can I say that hasn't already been said about Grant Stone? The construction is surprisingly hefty for how it leans on the sleeker side of style, and there is still a noticeable attention to detail even with all the flaws mentioned above. While I lean towards a bolder, chunkier look nowadays, these Ottawas still somehow became one of my favorite pairs.

Olive

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Not broken in yet These boots are incredibly comfortable all the way around my foot. Plenty of room for my instep and toes. No pressure points anywhere, and I can already tell that the flex point won't be a problem as I break them in. Comparing the Hollis to my Zinds in 7D, these are definitely the correct size. The Babbo leather is very different from the Balthazar leather used in my Zinds. It's thin, quite stiff, and it appears to have some kind of waterproof film over it that makes it look polished and is plasticy to the touch. It evokes a dressier finish, which I find to be an odd choice paired with the lug half-sole. I'm interested to see how it breaks in and whether it patinas. In direct sunlight the color is more brown than green, but I've seen pictures of it in bluer and greener lighting and that's when it looks absolutely beautiful. The subtle mottling is pretty neat too. When the boots came in, the lining was not fully attached to the inside of the left boot -- it looked like there wasn't enough material and the stitching missed it entirely. So I contacted customer service. They got back to me very quickly, confirmed that that's indeed an issue, advised me to take it to a cobbler as they don't do in-house repairs, and offered to reimburse me for the expense. This solution suited me wonderfully: within a couple hours it was fixed and it wasn't on my dime. Otherwise in every other part of the boot the construction seems solid and fairly consistent (save some minor differences here and there which are part and parcel when it comes to handmade boots). While I go back and forth on the color and I prefer the feel and finish of the Balthazar leather, the fit, comfort, style, and price are deal-makers for me.

Brown

Length: Slightly Short

Width: Perfect

Socks: Mid-cushion cotton Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Broken in as of mid 6/22 --- Update 7/23/22: When I first took these out for a 2-mile walk I got the nastiest blisters on both of my heels. From that point on I used heel liners. After further research (and comparing them to my other boots), these are definitely a half size too small. That being said, these are the most comfortable boots at a half size too small that I own. The snugness on the top of my foot isn't uncomfortable (about the same as my MP-Shermans at first wear, which are the correct size) and the width is pretty good especially compared to my Captains in 6.5. I took them on a 12-mile walk -- with the heel liners they were so comfortable that I forgot I was wearing them. I could've kept walking for another 12 miles. The flex point loosened up very quickly and only left a red mark on the tops of my toes that first time I wore them out. Once these come up in my rotation I'll be taking the heel liners out and testing the fit from there. All that being said, I'm going to be ordering a pair of Hollis in my true size. I'm curious to feel the difference. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review below largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- There's been no slippage whatsoever so far. The instep fit has been really great, not too tight and not too loose. My pinky toes have room to breathe, too! The flex point does noticeably press on my toes when I walk, but not painfully so, at least not for the 60 or so aggregate minutes I walked through the house in them. I imagine as the leather gets more supple that'll become less of a concern. The insole is super comfortable, cushier than basically any other boot I've worn so far. I also quite like the white stripe in the midsole (I know it's not everyone's cup of tea) and the Helm logo burned on the sole.

Black Italy Waxed Bullhide

Length: Slightly Short

Width: Perfect

Socks: Lightweight or midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width; boots are MTO by default and have a lead time of 3-4 months or more depending on order volume Not broken in yet In short, these fit beautifully. I'll elaborate later. Bear with me in the meantime. You know how the story goes: I saw these in the marketplace, ready to wear in the size range I most prefer. Yet I passed on them for a couple months. Black boots aren't my favorite, the wax was too much for me, not the biggest fan of brogued cap toes, not the biggest fan of the textured look. (I confess, I have very pedestrian tastes when it comes to boots.) But over time it grew on me. After all, I don't oppose black boots, I just want black boots that are interesting, that will patina, and these certainly fit both qualifications. After all, I just sold my Unmarked black boots because they were a half-size too small and just uncomfortable enough to not want to wear, leaving a space in my collection. After all, I have yet to get anything from boot makers in Asia. After all, that waxed finish is actually pretty cool the more I look at it... In November I decided that, if they were still around in December, I would go for it. Sure enough, I went for it. Before I dig in, I want to disclose that I worked out a deal with the lovely fellow selling them: give an honest review of these boots for a bargain price. Well, I have every intention to be honest but I cannot guarantee that a positive bias played no part. Firstly, Iron Boots's recommendation to order half-down from Brannock is, I think, not quite accurate. In lightweight socks I'm more like a size 7D-E; and in lightweight socks my arches align best in the boots. I would say order true to size. But the difference in fit between lightweight and midweight socks feels pretty nominal because wow are these boots incredibly comfortable either way! They're pleasantly snug in the waist, with plenty of room in the forefoot, on the instep, and on top of the toes. The arch support is noticeable but not dramatic -- which is saying a lot because with normal arches usually I don't notice arch support unless it's dramatic. The heels are a little roomy but not enough to knock about side-to-side. The volume is just right for my right foot, and still quite comfortable for my left. I might've been able to get away with ordering a D width, but given my sordid past with too-tight boots I prefer to err on the side of roomy -- and anyway, I'd say these are close enough to perfect for my tastes. As for the rest... As far as I can tell, these boots are nearly flawless. The stitching is entirely uniform from the uppers to the welt, there's not a single stitch or stitch hole out of place, and both boots match each other almost perfectly. The bull hide is so soft and supple that the uppers feel almost socklike, paired with a solidly structured toe and heel cup and sturdy and supportive outsole touting Dr. Sole Supergrips. If I had to find something wrong (maybe if someone's life depends on it for some reason) I would say the heels don't exactly match each other but that's a complete non-issue for me. Something worth noting is that Iron Boots also uses leather as a stiffener for the toe and hell, a leather shank, and wool filler instead of cork -- which, as I understand it, will shape to the foot as it's worn but will not eventually disintegrate and float around in the boot like cork does. Quality materials, inside and out. In addition, the shape of the 5515 last is unique and charming (though certainly not for everyone), somewhat resembling the shape of an actual foot from the top, and somehow managing to strike a balance between chunky and elegant from the sides. The dark brown welt in particular adds an additional pop of color without being a stark contrast like a more natural color would. Certainly a casual boot, but one that nonetheless makes the rest of me feel underdressed. For once, I would say that the pictures offered by the makers are a much better reflection of these boots than the pictures I've taken. So take a look at mine, sure, but also if you're interested go check out Iron Boot's Instagram @ironboots_usa. This is exactly the sort of thing that I was looking for from a price comparable to Viberg's, the "it" factor that I wanted. It's maybe not a reasonable expectation: after all, there's a huge difference in production costs, wages, cost of materials, and marketing and administrative costs between a small team of artisans in Guangzhou and a factory full of people in Victoria. Not to mention they each have different priorities when it comes to boot production -- apples and oranges as it were. In short one could say I prefer the apples for the price, but I still have a great deal of respect for oranges. Anyway. Silly metaphors aside, I love these boots, they fit wonderfully, and I'm currently seeing if I can make room in my collection for Iron Boots's The Chosen One.

Natural Chromexcel Roughout

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Broken in as of late August 2022 When I put these on for the first time, I knew right away that I'd found a last that was as close to perfect for me as I could get (without going bespoke, of course). It was comfortably snug in almost all the right places -- particularly in the ball of the foot which is the most hit-or-miss part for me in boots. I'm pretty squarely between a D and E width, and the roomier forefoot in the Trench Boot turned out to be a godsend. Break-in was super easy: no blisters, no soreness, no problems. The boot is competently constructed, with moderately thick leather, consistent stitching all over, and really sturdy heel stiffeners. The toe is interesting: there's certainly structure to it, but the top of the toe is still pretty soft compared to my other boots with structured toes. It's not a particularly heavy or light boot, and the comfort is pretty middle-of-the-road too, at least to start with, but of course it's gotten more comfortable over time. As far as the leather, it's really hard to get roughout wrong and this is no exception. It'll take whatever is thrown at it no problem. All that being said, these boots are missing an "it" factor for me. It's a good everyday boot (which is how they advertise it) and it fits me super well, but the matching stitching on the upper, the antique brass eyelets, the fairly standard silhouette and pattern, and the inoffensive finishing makes for rudimentary footwear that doesn't excite me like my other boots do. I got these on sale for 30% off so I'm pretty square with what I got, but if they never went on sale I think the price would've been a blocker for me. That's not to say that it's not worth what they're charging for it, just that it's not worth it for me.

8859 Navy Portage

Length: Perfect

Width: Slightly Narrow

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Not broken in yet These boots run a little narrow. It squishes my pinky toes a little from the sides, though not as much as my Thursdays in 6.5. It's not uncomfortable but I don't think I could wear thick boot socks with these. This is certainly a surprise given how delightfully roomy I found the Iron Rangers to be. Definitely not any less sturdy-feeling than the IRs, though, and it still feels designed for a high volume foot with plenty of room in the instep and toe box. The flex point ends up in roughly the right spot, the ball of my foot is firmly in the widest part of the boot, and I have just the right amount of heel slip, so half-down from true size was a good choice for me. The leather is so dark that in direct sunlight it looks black. As soft a spot as I have for blue boots, I appreciate the chameleonic nature of these. I was a little worried that these boots would come off a little clowny on my feet, but I don't think that's the case at all. They're definitely heftier and would be difficult to pull off with skinny jeans but that suits me just fine. The comfort factor is pretty on-par for what I expect from Red Wing -- which is to say it's not particularly comfortable. There's no cushion on the insole, but the lightweight wedge outsole helps a lot with shock absorption. I'm looking forward to when the insole starts to mold to my feet. Really minor complaint: once again (as with the IRs), I found the laces to be too short, though I suspect they'll be sufficient for someone with lower-volume feet.

kyle

These are bad ass boots - really love the color. How do they patina?

Reply

Nut Meg

I haven't really seen much change so far beyond creasing, not even scuffs, but then again they're seeing mostly short walks and home office wear so far. There isn't really any pull-up in the leather as far as I can tell, though, so I expect that any patina they develop will be subtle or caused primarily by something like stains or scratches.

8111 Amber Harness

Length: Perfect

Width: Moderately Narrow

Socks: Midweight merino wool; heavyweight boot socks Misc. Notes: High volume right foot Bought secondhand, pre-broken in --- Update 11/4/22: After buying boots that accommodate my width better, I couldn't help but notice how narrow these boots were every time I wore them. So I've passed them along to someone who will hopefully be much more comfortable in them. --- Update 8/4/22: I took the heel liners out to double-check my alignment. It's fine, and quite comfortable. Still love the space in the toes and on my instep. I think the IRs have converted me to bigger, more rugged-looking boots. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. I will contradict myself from the past, however: do not get sized by Red Wing's Volumental. Know your heel-to-ball Brannock size before you go to try stuff on at Red Wing. --- This is going to be a story so I'll just put my size review up here: they fit decently with a heel liner and with either midweight or thick boot socks, and there's loads of room in the instep and toe box. They definitely had high volume feet in mind when designing the last. There's some discomfort with the way the right tongue wrinkles over my foot which may have something to do with my right foot's higher volume, but that isn't an issue with thick socks. Something worth noting is that, at time of writing, the contact form is broken on Red Wing's U.S. site and they don't respond to fit requests through Grayle. If you want to figure out your sizing you're going to have to either give them a call or go into a brick and mortar Red Wing. ... Which segues nicely to the next portion of my review. Read on if you're interested in my experience with a Red Wing sales associate's in-person fit advice. But be warned: it's a long one. --- Before I had a chance to walk into a Red Wing, I'd been measured on a Brannock device (after some poor fit experiences with Thursday Boot Co., check out my other reviews if you're curious) by two separate people who said I was a 7.5D-E and 8D. I didn't take their word for it -- I'd tried on a whole bunch of sneakers and work boots in 7D, 7.5D, and 8D to test that out. That was before I knew anything about how shoes ought to fit, and the 7.5D work boots and the 8D sneakers were by far comfier and more secure than the shoes I'd been wearing my entire adult life up to that point (in fact I hadn't realized that shoes could get so comfortable) so I assumed they were correct. When I walked in and asked to try on some Iron Rangers, the guy looked me over and said, "Well, I'll check and see if we have any women's sizes in the back." I told him, "I was just measured at a men's size 7.5-8D, I don't think the women's sizes will work for me." I also told him which boots from other retailers I owned in which sizes and how they fit. Heedless, he insisted on bringing the women's sizes out, one in a women's size 8B, another in 8.5B. I played along because I figured it would be obvious that they didn't fit... and if somehow they did then great. Sure enough, they were way too tight -- I would've been standing on the welt if they'd been broken in -- and I said so. Then I asked, "Can you bring out some men's sizes, just to see?" He conceded. I tried on a men's 7D and 7.5D. The whole time the guy chatted with me, perfectly friendly, but emphasized their return policy, told me that Red Wing's leathers are such that they stretch out twice as much as any other leather, and told me horror stories of people (specifically women) who came in and bought a size they thought was comfortable out of the box only to come back three weeks later with their feet swimming in their boots even with three pairs of socks. None of that seemed right to me -- particularly the leather stretching so much... wouldn't that indicate really poor quality leather, and if not wouldn't that make for a boot that nobody would want? -- but I still listened because even if he was straight-up lying to me he still had more experience with boot fit and probably didn't want me to return my boots so I figured that there would be value in going along with what he was saying. Both the 7D and 7.5D fit well enough, snug but not uncomfortable. But I decided that the 7D would be the best option for me just in case he was being genuine about how much I can expect the leather to stretch. What did he have to say about it? "Well, right off the bat I think it looks too long on you." (As I think about it now, is merely looking long a reliable indication of shoe fit? What if I just happened to have long feet? Surely not everyone's feet look proportionate with the rest of their body.) At the time I thought, "Fair enough, I'm pretty short, he's probably right." But I proceeded to focus on how they felt on my feet, comparing them to my other experiences with boots. After a bit I spotted their fancy 3D imaging foot measuring device and thought to myself, "Hey, why not? More data points can't hurt, right? And I am curious about my arches and volume..." Also I hoped that, faced with the bare facts, the guy could offer me better suggestions rather than just try to scare me off. He agreed, but before we got started he made sure to let me know that the device was not the end-all be-all of fit, that I shouldn't get attached to the idea of the numbers. Good advice broadly speaking, but given everything else he'd said I still couldn't help but feel like he was trying to prime me for further persuasion away from the men's boots. He did change his tune after seeing my measurements: 6.1EE, wide through the whole foot, with high arches and a high right instep. "That explains why the larger sizes fit you better, is because of the width," he admitted. "Men's sizes will probably be your best bet." (Nevermind that I had already said so at the beginning and had proven in front of him that the women's boots did not fit.) He mostly stopped talking to me about the horror stories with boots ending up being too big, though he did give me vague reminders that they will fit differently after break-in and continued to remind me of the return policy. He also brought out a couple pairs of custom insoles and had me try them on in the 7D. They made the boots way too tight and I told him so, but he continued to try to sell them to me, saying that it might improve the fit after the boots fully break in. After a little while he offered to leave me alone to consider and I accepted. I must've paced around in that tiny store a hundred times. In the end, I had enough doubts that I decided that I would buy used Iron Rangers (after trying on a whole bunch of cheaper boots in a bunch of different sizes) and see how they fit then. Poor guy wouldn't be getting his commission. Feeling a little bad for wasting his time and thinking that they could come in handy if the IRs were in fact too loose after break-in, I bought the insoles I felt were most comfortable, thanked him, and left, rather disheartened by my experience. Now, I would like to say that I took a good hour and a half of this fellow's time. Other customers came in and he took care of them but he still was still attentive to and focused on me. He was very patient and never unfriendly or unprofessional. And if indeed he thought I didn't know what I was doing or talking about, he wouldn't have been entirely wrong. I'm sure I revealed my ignorance at multiple points throughout the fitting. Given how I'd had to interface with customers at one of my previous jobs myself, I can totally understand if he'd decided to try to manipulate me because he assumed that I would dig my heels in and demand to get my way otherwise. All the same, I'm quite frustrated that he didn't back off from persuading me away from the men's sizes until after he saw that I had EE feet. He may have been right about the 7Ds being too long, but I got the sense he'd dismissed my word outright. If he had been the one to suggest that we measure my feet I would've felt a lot more like he was actually trying to get my fit down rather than convince me to buy the boot that he thought I ought to buy based on one look at me -- and it would've saved us both a lot of time. I'm not sure if anyone else will have the same problem as this was just one guy, but I would recommend to anyone new to buying Red Wing boots to ask the sales associate to measure you first even if you know your Brannock so you both can start out on the same page. Anyway, cut to more than a month later, after learning a lot more about sizing and fit and testing the fit of a lot more boots, I have my used Iron Rangers in 7D. They did not stretch out twice as much. They are still too tight with insoles (so that was $70 down the drain, but I saved ~$180 buying secondhand so I can't complain too much), but I am so happy with the room in the instep and the toe box. Compared to my Helm Zinds and Thursday Vanguards in 7D these boots are much better suited for my feet. Though my tastes are generally geared towards sleeker boots the IRs are an exception because they really nailed the look. Something I found a little odd was that the flex point ended up precisely where it ought to -- roughly over where my toes meet my foot -- without heel liners. However the balls of my feet didn't really end up where they ought to have in the shoe. I put in the liners anyway and I'd say I'm aligned better now. One very minor complaint, though: the laces that come with the IRs aren't very long (about 48"). I had to use a different pair of laces in order to have enough to work with for my high volume foot. They were sufficient on my left foot, though.

Eden

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Cotton, midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Not broken in yet --- Update 11/4/22: I've passed these along to someone else. Nothing against the boot -- it just doesn't fit my style and I hardly ever wore it. --- Update 8/14/22: This boot is astonishingly comfortable on the instep and in the ball for being so sleek and dressy. It fits just about perfectly. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- I ordered this boot in a 6 first. It was much too tight on the instep, though it had a tolerable amount of width in the ball and toes. Being as there are no half-sizes at time of writing, the 7 is predictably far from a perfect fit for me. But that's okay for something I'm reserving for special occasions. The important thing is it's not too tight or loose around my instep and I experience no slippage while I walk. The width around the ball of the foot is generous, and the toe box is surprisingly roomy in all directions.

Honey Floral

Length: Slightly Long

Width: Perfect

Socks: Cotton, midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Not broken in yet --- Update 11/4/22: These are no longer in my collection. Nothing against the boot -- it just doesn't fit my style and I hardly ever wore it. --- Update 8/14/22: This boot is astonishingly comfortable on the instep and in the ball for being so sleek and dressy. It fits just about perfectly, even with the stiff leather. My only complaint is that it's a touch long in the toes -- occasionally I'll end up kicking the tip of the sole against the ground when I walk normally. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- I ordered this boot alongside a Jack boot. They fit very similarly so my review will look about the same. Got in a 6 first. It was much too tight on the instep, though it had a tolerable amount of width in the ball and toes. Being as there are no half-sizes at time of writing, the 7 is predictably far from a perfect fit for me. But that's okay for something I'm reserving for special occasions. The important thing is it's not too tight or loose around my instep and I experience no slippage while I walk. The width around the ball of the foot is generous, and the toe box is surprisingly roomy in all directions. One more thing I want to add is I think these boots may be slightly longer and wider than the Jack boots. They fit more like an 8 in sneakers in terms of length and width.

Indigo

Length: Perfect

Width: Moderately Narrow

Socks: Mid-cushion cotton, midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width Broken in as of mid 6/22 --- Update 11/16/22: Unfortunately, the more E and EE width boots I tried on, the less comfortable these boots became. Eventually I had to give them up. --- Update 7/17/22: After finally pinning down my size and breaking the boots in, I decided to take out the heel liners. The fit still feels somewhat insecure but I think that's just due to the suppleness of the leather and me not being used to boots that aren't too short. There's no back-and-forth slippage so everything still points to it being a good fit. Aside from all that, it was a quick, pretty painless break-in. Within maybe two or three days of wearing it around the house these boots became quite comfortable and flexible. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- Due to my experience with the Captains (tl;dr: I tried on a whole bunch of sizes and settled on a 6.5, though now I think I'd choose differently) and because I'd heard that these boots run a smidge narrower than the rest of Thursday's options, I finally sent my fit request to Thursday instead of continuing to go at it on my own. The rep was prompt and very helpful. Eventually we settled on a 7 with thick heel liners to give my feet an extra halfish size up in length. Comparing the Vanguards to my Helm Zinds in 7D, it does run very slightly narrower. Still roomier in the ball and toe box than the Captains in 6.5, though. I personally would not order a bigger size to compensate. When I walked around the house in these for a bit, I noticed that the flex point lined up really well with where my toes and foot meet, about as well as my Captains (and better than my Diplomats). There was also only a little bit of heel slip, maybe 1/8". Should indicate a perfect length, right? Something felt a little unsteady to me about the fit, though, even though I had no tangible complaints, so I put in some heel liners as advised and the difference was magical. It feels much more secure now. It's hard to see on the official site but these boots are in fact far more blue than black, which is exactly what I wanted. (I'm hoping my pictures will illustrate that better.) Based on the lacing wear on the tongue and slight burnishing on the heel, it looks like it'll lighten up beautifully over time.

Terracotta

Length: Slightly Short

Width: Slightly Narrow

Socks: Mid-cushion cotton Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Broken in as of early 6/22 Update 9/3/22: These boots are no longer a part of my collection. --- Update 7/23/22: These were a really easy break-in -- it only took maybe a day or two. They're more forgiving than the Diplomats, but they still run a little tight. It's generally fine, not super uncomfortable, but I tend to pass these over in favor of better-fitting boots. Even the Helm Zinds and Unmarked DB Hunters I own in a half-size too small are roomier. I may have to pass these along. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- I really ranged the field of sizes for the Thursday Captain before I got my feet properly measured. Size 6 was comfortable enough out of the box, but after a 3-mile walk it proved to be too tight. Size 7 was a good, snug fit around my foot and didn't feel too long (though in retrospect I'm sure it is). Size 7.5 didn't even swallow my foot, but it was so long on me that it messed with my spatial awareness. Finally, AFTER I'd gotten properly measured, I ordered a 6 wide (labeled as EE/EEE) and 6.5 alongside each other. The 6 wide felt like it was made of a different, stiffer leather, even though it was roughly the same color and texture as the 6.5. It was also a bizarre mixture of too tight and too loose: the seam of the tongue pressed on the instep of both feet, but the vamp and toebox were really tall. The tongue also kept sliding down and bunching close to the seam as I walked. The width was pretty comfortable, though, close to being too roomy. In the end, I settled on the 6.5 because, even if it is tighter than I like, it's at least consistent. Besides, I knew from wearing the Thursday Diplomat in 6.5 for a couple of months that it wouldn't hurt me if I was mindful.

Harvest

Length: Slightly Short

Width: Slightly Narrow

Socks: Mid-cushion cotton Misc. Notes: High volume right foot Broken in as of late 3/22 Update 9/3/22: After wearing these out and about for a little while and letting my feet swell in them, the instep still ended up being tighter than I like despite the stretching. These are no longer a part of my collection. --- Update 8/4/22: I finally caved and had these stretched in width and instep height by a cobbler. It's made a huge difference. These are now one of the most comfortable pairs of boots I own. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- These were an exchange for a 6, which was tight enough to cut off my circulation. Wore constantly for daily 2-4 mile walks for a week. Wore on one 12+ mile walk. In both cases there were no blisters, no hotspots, and no pain. These are still tighter than I like, particularly on the top of my right foot, but they're not uncomfortable and it's easy to forget about once I get into the swing of walking. I have to be careful not to lace it too tightly, however, as it will start hurting my feet after about 10 minutes if I do. The leather is fairly stiff and thick, much stiffer than most other offerings from Thursday. To this day the collar makes my ankles sore on occasion, but that's easy enough to prevent by lacing the top a little looser.

Length: Perfect

Width: Slightly Narrow

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Not broken in yet Though these boots look fairly hefty, I actually found them to be a touch narrow on the sides, almost as narrow as my White's MPs right out of the box, and the waist is really snug. Similarly, I feel some extra pressure on the base knuckles of my big toes. Something worth noting is I am between a D and E width, which might explain the narrowness (although I've worn D width boots that accommodated my feet just fine), and I suspect that all that will ease with break-in. Everything else seems to line up the way it should, from the slight heel slip to the flex point landing right on where my toes bend to the ball of my foot ending up in the widest part of the boot; so I would not go true to size. That's where the parallels with the MPs end, though: there's considerably more room on the instep and in the toes, which I and my right foot are very happy about. Aside from that, they're surprisingly comfortable. The toe spring makes it very easy and natural to walk around, and they feel quite light on foot! Given the look (that commando sole, though) and Truman's reputation for making tanks, I was fully expecting them to carry me away with them. That's not to say that these boots aren't tanks, though. Right away they felt very sturdy in my hands -- certainly the leather is thick all around, from the upper to the eyelet reinforcements to the heel counter and backstay. In addition, the stitching is quite neat and even all around, and the soles look like they're going to take a long time to wear down. I've seen lots of wildly mixed reports about the QC of Truman's boots, but I'm hard-pressed to find any faults in this particular pair. To be fair, these just happened to be in stock in my size, so maybe MTO is a different story. What really impresses me the most is the little touches. The choice in leather is striking, a rich indigo color that I absolutely love. The natural leather in the tongue and rolled edge, the golden contrast stiching on the upper, the natural edges on the midsole and heel stack, and the heftier, work boot sort of look all combine to make the Noble Ink Rambler really unique and full of personality. I wouldn't call it versatile or low-key, but it's certainly something that I'm eager to wear; and I'm also going to keep an eye on Truman in general in the future.

shaquille.oatmeal

Really love the color on these, do you know what kind of leather this is?

Reply

Nut Meg

Yep! It's waxed flesh-out cow leather from C.F. Stead from their Rambler line, very similar to the Waxy Commander leather that Grant Stone uses.

Togebough

Hi Nutmeg, when you've gotten some good wear/patina on them was wondering if you could upload those pictures up. Have been wanting to get this particular boot but was curious to see how it age the only point of comparison I've found is someone who has put a post 3 year one for the coach rambler on reddit. TY

Reply

Nut Meg

I'll be happy to!

Length: Perfect

Width: Slightly Narrow

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width Not broken in yet When I saw these were ready to ship in my size, I told myself I wasn't going to get them. I have enough blue boots as is, one of which is in fact from Truman. A tale as old as time, right? I was surprised to find that these feel a little wider in the ball than my Noble Ink Ramblers, just wide enough not to cause any soreness -- I was under the impression that the 20 last was the roomier one. Certainly these boots have somewhat less volume on top, but I still have plenty of space to wiggle my toes. Aside from that, it feels the same as the 20 in a lot of ways: just barely enough space on the sides for my pinky toes to spread, good fit in the heels, snug in the waist. Overall I'm okay with this fit, but the more D-width boots I try on, the more I wonder if I wouldn't be better served by E or even EE. I've heard from more than one person that generally going up one width from Brannock is the way to go and I'm beginning to agree with that. The leather also surprised me. It's very similar to Horween's Chromepak: quite waxy (so it scuffs very easily, which I like), somewhat stiff, beautiful pull-up. Chromepak has become one of my favorite leathers so the surprise was a pleasant one, and from what I can see the grain is generally tighter in the Ink Cheaha than in my 310 Service Boot in Olive Chromepak. The color is what I would call true blue, with no green undertones like Thursday's Indigo Vanguard or purple undertones like Truman's Noble Ink Rambler, and it doesn't turn black in direct sunlight like Red Wing's Navy Portage leather. As much as I like those other colors, this was exactly what I was initially looking for in a blue boot. Now I don't need any more -- for real this time, I promise! Once again, the construction is solid, with thick leather and a hefty commando sole. The stitching is uniform and the two boots look more or less even. It did come with a nick or crack of some kind on the right tongue, but it's nothing I consider worth fussing about (although I can understand why someone might be fussed). The contrast stitching makes the blue really pop and I quite like how it matches with the midsole. I've added some laces in a similar color to draw that contrast out a little more (this happened after I took the initial pics, so you won't see it here yet unfortunately) and the result is handsome.

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width; BTO times are listed as 6-8 weeks Ordered: 11/1/22 Received: 12/6/22 Not broken in yet This is the first of three pairs that I ordered in EE width, the first that I got BTO, and the first that I got in the Upland style. Because Truman's D width in both the 79 and 20 lasts felt a little narrow and slightly low volume and I heard that the 79 EE fit more like an E I decided to give wider boot a shot. It was a good move. There's just the right amount of room in the forefoot and on top of my right foot, with none of the usual pressure on the base knuckle of my big toes. The waist of my feet still feel well-hugged, and my heels are cupped just about perfectly. In addition, at 7 inches the Upland supports my ankles quite effectively. It was very comfortable right out of the box and a joy to walk around in. I suspect that it might be narrow for those with actually EE width feet, but for me it's a great fit. If I order any more boots from Truman, I will definitely opt for the EE width. The Cattail Grizzly leather feels soft and supple right away, which seems counterintuitive because it's such a thick, durable-feeling leather. It feels almost like it'd been pre broken-in. Truman's website has photos that make the leather look more orange than it is -- in fact, it's far more reddish than I expected. The written description is much more accurate, calling it a "rich auburn". Nowadays I expect that boots won't appear in real life as they do in photographs, and it's still an absolutely beautiful color with a lot of dimension to it that wasn't present in my collection so I wasn't disappointed. There's a lot of extra character to this leather too, with some of the natural grain and discoloration peeking through. On the vamp of both of my boots there are some subtle stripes that give it a little more personality than a standard brown boot, and the tan stitching helps make the reddish color pop slightly more. As usual, these are some well-constructed, sturdy boots that really look and feel like they could take (and dish out) a beating. They're heavy, with thick leather and a hearty lug sole. I'm a little puzzled that it's outfitted with just a 270-degree storm welt -- either a 270 flat welt or 360 storm welt seem to be more practical choices -- but it won't make a difference to me because I don't make a habit of stomping through deep puddles. I confess, I was a little nervous when I saw my boots being shipped out two weeks earlier than their minimum lead time. I wasn't sure what that would mean for the quality control, as I'd heard (and seen) some pretty mixed things about Truman's QC. Luckily I needn't have worried. There are no major flaws with these boots, they appear fairly evenly matched with each other, and the stitching is consistent enough for my tastes. The flaws it does have a purely aesthetic: the stitching is noticeably far out on the welt, on occasion just barely missed by the sander (my compliments to whoever handled sanding that day), and while the leather on the vamp, heel counter, and backstay appear fresh and smooth and look as though they each will have fine creases, the leather on the quarters was already loosely wrinked-looking out of the box (although I'm sure it's at least partially the natural texture of the leather, and it certainly won't stand out as much with wear). Given the price I'm absolutely not offering these up as complaints, just as a warning to more particular folks. It's worth noting, though, that I didn't see these flaws with my other two pairs of Trumans. All told, Truman hit 3 for 3 with me. I have more than enough boots from them but that won't stop me from being tempted every time they release a new leather or issue another limited MTO.

Cap Toe Black

Length: Slightly Short

Width: Slightly Narrow

Socks: Mid cushion cotton, midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; boots are MTO, usually taking up to 15 days according to the site Ordered: 5/26/22 Received: 7/12/22 Not broken in yet These took a while to come in because it turned out there was some unexpected staff turnover at Unmarked. This was not something they announced because they didn't expect it to slow down production as much as it did -- I had to reach out and ask. All that being said, they were very prompt, friendly, and up front once I did ask, and these boots were well worth the wait, especially considering how many MTO boot places will take three or more months. Before placing the initial order I sent a fit request through Grayle (at the time I'd been going off my Red Wing Volumental size, which turned out to be limited to heel-to-toe, putting me at 6.1EE) and they told me to pick a size 7 and that they would leave a note to use a 6.5E last instead. So it's worth noting that they have wider lasts available, even if it didn't end up helping in my case. Production was still in progress about the time that I discovered that my heel-to-ball size was 7.5D, so I sent an email asking if I could change the size on my order. They asked me to send confirmation of my measurements. After a couple days they came back and told me that my order was messed up and the boots ended up being lasted in size 7 anyway. I think there was some miscommunication (I did overexplain, a serious flaw of mine haha) because the owner recommended I try the 7 based on my Red Wing size. Though dubious I agreed because they do offer returns and exchanges. They even threw in a pair of extra insoles just in case I needed them, which I knew from the beginning I wouldn't but it was very nice of them. The customer service is stellar. And the craftsmanship is stellar too. They're a beautiful pair of boots. There are some really minor flaws that you'd expect from any handmade boots at this price point, like the heels being slighly different sizes, mildly unequal stitches per inch between the rows of stitching on the welt of one boot, an extra stitch hole on the welt of the other, and a tiny bit of glue leftover on the upper but those don't bother me at all, particularly considering that I got these on sale. They fit very similar to a Grant Stone Diesel in 6.5E, except I think it may even be slightly roomier in the ball. There is a little bit of tightness on the tongue seam on my right foot, but luckily thinner socks solves that problem. The heel shape is interesting -- I can't tell if there's heel slip because I only feel my heel touch the counter on my rear foot when I'm in full stride. I'd be interested in seeing if that cuts down on blisters. The top of the heel counter does put some uncomfortable pressure on my right ankle if I'm not careful with the lacing, though, but I suspect that'll go away with break-in. One really small thing that I especially like is how the leather laces that come with the boots are cut slim enough to fit easily in the smaller eyelets and speed hooks. I don't know how it affects durability but I found it to be a thoughtful touch, since in my experience leather laces often don't even fit normal-sized speed hooks. The unique pull tabs give the boots just a hint of extra character too. Ultimately I decided to keep the size 7, as it's not uncomfortable and I don't want to bog down production further, but next time I'll be ordering true to size. And there will absolutely be a next time. Already I've gotten compliments and multiple requests for the link to the product page.

Oak Chromepak, Plain Toe

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width Not broken in yet After experiencing how comfortable the 310 was even at possibly a half size small, I found myself curious about how Viberg's more conventional looking lasts felt. In particular I was drawn to the 2030 because it seemed like its volume would accommodate my feet well. In this case, I turned out to be right. At half-down (instead of full-down, as recommended by Viberg's website) the ball of my foot lines up right where it should. Though the boot doesn't feel particularly snug in any area, the edges of the balls of my feet do press against the uppers a little which indicates to me that the boot isn't too wide. There's plenty of room for my toes to spread and wiggle. I do like a snug fit (if it's snug in the right ways in the right places) but the slightly roomy fit of the 2030 at half-down is still quite secure and my feet feel like they can breathe, making it one of the most comfortable boots I own. If I had one nitpick it would be that my heel doesn't feel as cupped as it does in my 310's in 6.5, but my heel doesn't shift around side-to-side at all while I walk so it's a minor complaint. Though this particular makeup is an offering on Viberg's website proper, I ordered through Brooklyn Clothing Co. It came in fairly quickly and I'm really hard pressed to find even the smallest of flaws in the construction. The stitching is not only just as fine but incredibly even, with the double rows on the welt lining up almost exactly with each other. I've heard from Viberg enthusiasts that stockists tend to have more stringent QC standards than Viberg's .com and, comparing my two pairs (which is not a good sample size, granted), that seems to lend towards what they say. The Chromepak leather is exactly what I expected based on my experiences with the 310, although somewhat less waxy. In fact, by feel it even more closely resembles the leather in my pair of Truman Ink Cheaha than the Olive Chromepak. Could be that it was indeed infused with less wax, or perhaps it's somewhat older leather. (This speculation is purely philosophical -- the answer won't materially change anything as far as I'm concerned. It's still what I wanted.) I will say that the color of Oak Chromepak is significantly lighter than on Viberg's website and significantly yellower than on BCC's website. In fact, it more closely resembles the picture BCC has of the White's MP-M1 in Yuma Gaucho, and the color of the Yuma Gaucho more closely resembles BCC's picture of the Oak Chromepak. My pictures more accurately reflect that, though of course the lighting there isn't perfect either. I'm not a fan of the look of the ridgeway sole, but that's another minor complaint. I don't make a habit of staring at the soles of my boots, and underfoot it doesn't really differ all that much from my experiences with, say, lug soles, so I don't mind too much. It'll wear away eventually. Overall, I'm beginning to understand the hype for Viberg. I'm not quite there myself, but if I somehow end up having a gap in my collection I won't be writing it off as an option either. Two for two their boots have been incredibly comfortable, attractive, and finely constructed, and their unique leather choices have charmed me.

Olive Chromepak

Length: Slightly Short

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Not broken in yet These are a little difficult to account for size! The usual hallmarks don't apply due to the curved shape which is designed specifically to flow with one's steps: there's no heel slip and there's no real flex point to keep an eye out for. Based on where the widest part of my foot lands in the boot, though, I could've gotten away with ordering a half size down instead of a full size down as recommended by Viberg's website. However the full size down is still quite comfortable. At an E width (the only width they offered in this last), it's nice and roomy in the ball and on the instep while being perfect width in my heels, and there's plenty of space in the toe box. In fact, it's entirely possible that a half-down would've been too wide so maybe I got the better end of the deal after all. I quite like the shape of the boot and how it feels on-foot and in-stride. I've seen some people saying that it takes some getting used to but it felt pretty great to me the first time I walked around in them. I would like to add, though, that the pictures on the website appear to exaggerate the toe spring, at least to my eye. It doesn't look that curved in person. Hopefully my pictures illustrate that a little better. The leather is really supple, with a beautifully dark color and incredible pull-up. I find that olive-colored leathers can often appear a little sickly in direct sunlight, but in any light this is quite a rich, dark green with enough earth tones to keep it versatile. It does scuff and scrape pretty easily although I'm sure, due to how waxy it is, it buffs out just as easily. The stitching is incredibly fine -- I'm quite impressed with the stitch density. However, the rows of stitching on the welt are uneven and even crooked in places. On my right boot, there's a few parts where the two rows nearly (or do in fact) converge. This sort of thing seems to be pretty common across brands and as far as I can tell it doesn't affect structural integrity, so I only try to note it for boots that cost a lot of money or have a reputation for high quality. Especially at Viberg's price point and reputation, I would hope for more attention to that kind of detail. I do understand that a lot of other factors go into Viberg's pricing (hence "hope" as opposed to "expect"), and though I'm being nitpicky it was certainly worth it for me, so far anyway.

Yuma Gaucho

Length: Perfect

Width: Moderately Narrow

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Broken in as of late 8/22 --- Update 11/16/22: I couldn't make it work. They were too narrow to be comfortable. Hopefully they're perfect for their next owner. --- These are smaller than my MP-Shermans in almost every way. The ball is in the same spot -- my foot ends up aligned properly in the boot -- but it's not as long, the heel and neck are smaller, the instep is lower, the waist is tighter, and it's less heavy overall. (Those aren't complaints, I don't mind it being smaller.) The only thing that concerns me is how much more snug it is. It's not uncomfortable, it has loosened up a little after a couple weeks in shoe trees, and my toes still have plenty of room to spread (all-in-all, it's a very similar story to my MP-Shermans) but these might just be tight enough to cause circulation problems. The adage with White's is "go down half in length, go up a width" and the fit of this boot has really convinced me that that's true. Even so, though I would never recommend this to anyone else because it's very ill-advised, I'm going to attempt to break them in anyway as I really like this makeup and it doesn't come in different widths. Hope springs eternal. Or maybe it's hubris... Speaking of the makeup, this boot is a Brooklyn Clothing Co. exclusive. It caught my attention because nubuck is super cool and I didn't have any in my collection, I wanted another pair of White's, and based on the pictures on the site it was a really nice color that I didn't have anything close to. When I got them I very much wasn't disappointed, though I would like to point out that these boots are a lot ruddier than the site indicates. In fact, the color is very close to my Iron Rangers in Amber Harness, or my Brass Boots in Snuff Reverse Kudu. My pictures show that a little better, though of course lighting changes a lot. For all my qualms about sizing, I'm not experiencing "White's bite", which (as I understand it) is tightness on the instep where the tongue is sewn to the vamp. In fact, I've experienced that with Solovair, Thursday, Grant Stone, and Unmarked, but not White's for some reason. The construction is still very tough, the leather is quite thick, and the stitching is even throughout. It does have the rolled welt that seems to turn some people off but it doesn't bother me at all. Despite the fit I'm still pretty excited about this pair. Even if they doesn't work out, I'll be coming back to White's.

kyle

A brilliant review, as always. Really love the nubuck!

Reply

Nut Meg

Thanks! And yeah, it's a rich color and a great feel. I'm super hoping they eventually ease up like my Shermans did

Plain Toe, Dark Brown Waxed Flesh

Length: Perfect

Width: Moderately Narrow

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width Broken in as of early August 2022 --- Update 11/16/22: After breaking in the Perry Mocs in EE width, I kept getting distracted by the narrowness and tightness of these boots. It was tolerable but the fact that I kept noticing it while walking indicated something was amiss. These have been passed along to another owner who will hopefully enjoy them. --- These boots were pretty tight on the instep at first wear, about as tight as my Helm Zinds which are a half-size too small for me. (So, not uncomfortable but quite restrictive.) However the ball alignment was correct, it wasn't too tight on the sides, the flex point and heel slip were about right, the fit around the heel was pretty comfortable, etc. I was divided about whether to exchange these for my true size, but after I did some googling I found that most everyone agrees that White's are pretty tight on the instep at first wear and then loosen up well over time. Indeed, I put shoe trees in them for a week or two and that eased the tightness enough to settle my concerns. However on the first day of a week's continuous wear around the house there was enough pressure on the base knuckle of both big toes that they got a little sore. This continued throughout the week, even as the rest of the boot loosened up and got more flexible and comfortable. I suspect that's because that's the spot where the all the stitches in the quarter converge over two layers of thick leather. It'll probably require more breaking in before it gets fully comfortable. One thing to note is that these boots are long in the toes, longer than almost all my other boots in comparable sizes by 1/4-1/3 inch. Small difference on paper but noticeable on foot. It doesn't matter to me -- I'm not a stickler for looking proportional. More potential negatives if you're picky: the stitch length on the welt isn't terribly consistent and the stitches aren't always straight. None of this is a structural issue, and to me this is simply a testament to the fact that it's hand-stitched. But I know some people would be annoyed given the price. They are also somewhat heavy on-foot. I get used to it pretty quickly but when I put on other boots afterwards I definitely notice the difference. All that being said, I'm really happy with the MP-Sherman. It's a great combination of tough and sleek, with nice, thick leather, lug soles, and a low profile. It's gotten me to fall in love with PNW boots. However, I'm not sure I recommend these at full price. Unless you're 100% committed to the sleek look you can get something similar for cheaper from other PNW makers, or more customization from said makers for the same price. I got my pair on closeout personally and I think that was a great deal.

Red Dog, 8-inch

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot; both feet on the cusp of D and E width Not broken in yet My last pair of White's were 7D and they were so narrow and tight on my instep that I decided I would try a EE should I order another pair. That's exactly what I did with these, despite them being made on a different last. So that's one point for -0.5 length +1(ish) width as a general rule of thumb for White's. It was 100% the move to make. These were so comfortable right off the bat: the volume feels like it's hugging the tops of my feet rather than constricting them and I don't have to worry about lacing too tightly on my right foot (which is rare even with boots that fit well), there's enough room in the forefoot for my toes to spread, particularly my pinky toes, and my heels feel cupped by the heel counters. Of course with the taller toe box my toes have plenty of vertical space to wiggle. "Supportive" is the operative term here, as everything from the sides of my feet to my arches to my heels to my ankles feel so securely supported that my stride feels light and bouncy. A large part of that is no doubt the leather. While not strictly stiff it isn't soft either, with a smooth but what I can only describe as a plain texture. It's not dry as in it feels parched but it isn't the least bit oily or waxy either. Of course, this is one of White's work leathers so I wasn't expecting it to feel anything like Chromexcel. Indeed, it's gotten me to begin to understand what is so appealing about a White's work boot (as opposed to one designed purely for heritage fashion). There is a little bit of pull-up, which indicates they will age beautifully. One thing worth noting is that this leather, while new, is very creaky. Every step I take in these boots is accompanied by a chorus that sounds a lot like two kids swinging on dual rope swings. It's not something that bothers me in a vacuum, but I'm quite aware that this could absolutely set off someone's misophonia. I imagine that'll be less and less of an issue the more these are broken in, though. I will say that these boots are incredibly comfortable. Not only does everything feel supported but White's also provided a pair of removable Ortholite cushioned insoles. That plus the usual comfort that comes with the Vibram wedge sole and I could probably walk in these boots forever. I did take out the insoles to put my feet on them, ensuring that the arches lined up well and there was enough width -- it's almost a perfect fit. Two points. As far as nitpicks go, the shelf of the boot (think the top-down view of the welt, midsole, and sole) is really wide all the way around. Of course these aren't sleek to begin with but these look especially chunky from the top down. I quite like a chunky boot and I'm certain much of this has to do with the split/storm welt so I have no complaints, but it's not particularly pretty. I've wanted an 8-inch boot and a reddish moc toe for a while now and wow, I was not disappointed! It's going for a low price too, only just one pricing tier above Thursday. Honestly, I would say this is a steal and a great staple moc toe to have.

Arabica Lux

Length: Perfect

Width: Perfect

Socks: Midweight merino wool Misc. Notes: Higher volume right foot Broken in as of late 7/22 Update 7/22/22: I took out the heel liners and the fit was actually really good, with the right amount of heel slip and my feet ending aligned pretty perfectly. These are COMFY, probably in the top three comfiest boots I own. They ended up being fully broken in within just one or two days of wearing them all day around the house. I can walk for miles in them no problem. Not a single blister. The comfort of the sock liners goes away pretty quick, though, unfortunately. Also, I think the heels aren't quite balanced correctly: when I'm standing there's a lot of pressure right on the front edge of the heel and it ends up splitting the heel stack from the rest of the sole a little. It doesn't happen while walking, just standing. I'm not sure if it's a design issue, a QC issue, or a stance issue. --- Update 7/3/22: The review below is from before I learned my Brannock (or "true") size is actually 7.5D due to my arch length. Previously I was referencing Red Wing's Volumental measurements, which put me at a 6.1EE (which is based on my heel-to-toe length). I've kept the review largely as is because my experiences with this boot's fit and comfort are still relevant (even if the interpretations may be off), and I think it's a good illustration of how complicated, varied, and subjective fit can be. --- This fits like pretty much all my other 7D boots: width is perfect, length is far from. Nothing super exceptional there except there's more room in the instep and toe box than Helm's Zinds and Thursday's Vanguards. Not a surprise, these boots aren't as low profile. Once again, the flex point ended up in the right spot (right where the toes and foot meet) without heel liners, but the widest part of my foot ended up being aligned better in the widest part of the boot with the heel liners. No back-and-forth or side-to-side slippage either way. Comfort, I think, is where the 1000 Miles stand out: the sock liner on the insole is really cushy and the uppers are probably the softest and most supple leather of any boots I own so far, including the ones I've worn for a while. I don't expect there to be much of a break-in period. Speaking of the leather, it's absolutely gorgeous. I got it with an eye towards how it's going to look years down the line. You can see hints of it in direct sunlight -- I think my pictures captured that pretty well.